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                              The Mechanics of Playing Pool 
                                                             by BCA Certified Instructor Chris O'Donnell

                       
Building a Bridge - Solid, Sturdy & Snug                              
                                                Copyright 2003-2010  Chris O'Donnell  All Rights Reserved
     

          Bridging the cue is usually the most difficult aspect of pool for a beginner.  It can also be a significant stumbling block for an experienced player who isn't seeing much improvement in their game lately.  The difficulties arise from the fact that the bridge serves several very important functions and, therefore, must have several key characteristics to allow you to execute a successful pool shot.

          First, a
bridge must be placed solidly on the table, whether on the playing surface or the rail.   A solid placement helps stabilize the bridge to maintain accurate alignment and cueing, while also stabilizing your stance to help maintain your balance throughout the shot.  When the placement of the balls does not allow you to place your palm down solidly, as is the case when using an elevated bridge to shoot over another object ball, your finger placement must be solid enough to pick up the slack.

         Second, a bridge must be sturdy enough to maintain the desired height of the shaft throughout the stroke.  You can stroke the cue ball in the center, or by raising or lowering your bridge, you can apply topspin or backspin to the cue ball.  A weak bridge allows the shaft to change height during the stroke, leading to inconsistent results. 

          Finally, while any bridge must allow the cue to stroke smoothly, without sticking or dragging, it must be snug enough to prevent any lateral (side-to-side) movement.  The bridge forms a channel (open bridge) or a tunnel (closed bridge) that guides the cue as you stroke.  A snug bridge helps maintain good alignment of the cue throughout the stroke, and helps to assure accurate cueing.  If you have trouble making a snug bridge that allows a smooth stroke that doesn't stick or drag against your skin, consider using a glove or powder.

          Bridging distance refers to how far behind the cue ball the bridge is placed.  It is the space between the back of the cue ball and the front of the bridge.  The front of the bridge on an open bridge is the front of the "vee" that supports the shaft, while the front of the closed bridge is the front of the "tunnel" made with the index finger.  In either case, it is not measured from the front of your finger tips.

          Most new players should use about a six to eight inch bridging distance, whether using an open or closed bridge.  Experienced players are usually between nine and twelve inches.  New players can move back as they develop a straight enough stroke that accuracy becomes less of a concern.  The experienced player still uses the shorter bridging distance for shorter, softer shots, moving the grip up the same distance to keep the cue balanced.  Essentially, a short bridging distance promotes accuracy, while a longer bridge makes it easier for most players to stroke with a good rhythm.

          The open bridge has several advantages.  Because it is also the easiest to make, it is usually the preferred choice of new players.  It also provides an unobstructed view down the shaft, which can make aiming easier.  While most experienced players prefer a closed bridge for most shots, they won't hesitate to use an open bridge when the time is right, especialy to extend their reach on a stretch shot.  

          When first learning the game, if you are having difficulty making a sturdy, closed bridge, an open bridge allows you to focus on the other fundamentals quicker and with greater confidence.  Even if you are comfortable with your closed bridge, it is still a good idea to use an open bridge during part of your practice sessions, especially to ensure that you are gripping correctly.  Many times with a closed bridge, it is difficult to tell if a problem is in the bridge or the grip.  The open bridge eliminates any confusion.


                                         
                                          Index finger pointed at left side of cue ball
                                                               
          It's easy to make an open bridge.  First, place your flat hand solidly on the table with your fingertips about six inches behind the cue ball and your index finger pointing the the left edge of the cue ball (for a right-handed player using the left hand to bridge).  Second, spread your fingers apart comfortably.  Third, keeping your palm stationary, slide your fingertips back toward you about a half-an-inch or so, cupping the middle of your hand to raise the bridge.  Fourth, place your thumb against your index finger just below the knuckle to create a snug, vee-shaped channel.  You can raise or lower the bridge by sliding your fingertips backward or forward.


                                       
                                             Thumb against index finger creates 
                                                 channel, or "vee," to guide cue 


          Elevate the open bridge when the back of the cue ball is blocked.  This is nothing more than the basic open bridge with your palm raised, and your hand cupped, as much as necessary to get over the obstructing ball.  Be sure to keep your thumb up high to prevent the shaft from sliding off the side of the channel.  You can base the bridge on three or four fingers.  Three fingers allows you to get slightly higher, but will not be as stable.  Add stability to the three-finger bridge by making a tripod with your fingertips, with the ring finger out in front. and the other two farther back.  Just make sure your fingers are placed very solidly to prevent lateral (side-to-side) sway.


                                        
                                        Raised bridge with fingertips placed solidly


          While the closed bridge may seem difficult at first, it will give you much more control over the shaft, especially on shots that require a powerful stroke.  On such shots, the shaft will naturally come up off an open bridge as you follow through with the stroke.  The closed bridge uses the index finger to hold the shaft down.  The closed bridge also gives you better feel (or touch) and, for some, greater consistency since there is contact at more points between the shaft and your skin inside the tunnel.  When placing the bridge on the table, point your hand at the target.  This will allow the shaft to ride along as much of your thumb as possible, and against more of your hand between the index finger and the thumb. 

                                  
                                                                          
                                                Closed bridge with palm placed 
                                                              solidly on table
       
          There are many ways to a make a closed bridge.  
Some players like to bend the index finger at both joints, forming more of a loop around the shaft.  Others like one bend, keeping the first two sections straight and forming more of a triangle around the shaft.  Some players like to place the index finger, or part of it, on top of the middle finger.  Players with long fingers often prefer to put the index finger between the middle finger and the thumb, both to lower the bridge and to make the tunnel more snug.  Hands come in many shapes and sizes.  Try as many different style bridges as necessary until you find a comfortable one that is both sturdy and snug.  Then, place it solidly on the table.  

                                          
                                          
                                                     The classic closed bridge
 
                                                
          To be sure that your closed bridge is snug enough, try this test.  Using just your bridge, hold your cue in front of you with the shaft pointed toward the ceiling and the butt of the cue on the floor.  Then, tighten down the bridge (the tunnel part) just enough so you can lift the cue off the floor.  When your bridge is snug enough to do this, yet still allows you to stroke the cue smoothly, your bridge is perfectly snug.  The clincher is when you see the skin immediately surrounding the shaft shift back and forth slightly as you stroke the cue. 

          There are two common types of rail bridges.  The most common has the thumb tucked under the palm on the tapered edge of the rail, with the fingertips on the cushion.  The thumb, not the palm, serves as the base of the bridge and should be placed solidly on the rail.  The shaft rests on the edgeof the cushion, held in place on each side by the index and middle fingers, and by the big knuckle on the thumb.  This bridge provides accuracy and stablility provided the fingers are placed firmly enough on each side of the shaft so it can not move side to side as you stroke.  


                                      
                                                Bridge is based on thumb which 
                                                            also guides cue
  
          If you don't like the thumb tuck, hold the thumb over the shaft away from the index finger.  The hand is placed further back on the tapered edge of the rail, but the shaft still rests on the edge of the cushion.  This bridge is useful when the cue ball is very close, or frozen, to the cushion.  Raise the shaft either by cupping the hand or by moving the bridge forward.  This bridge is also used to shoot over a pocket or any time the shot requires that you raise or "jack up" the butt in order to cue low for backspin.

          Good luck!


  


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                 

                                 










    
               

          

  





                                             

      

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